Sunday, March 15, 2009

HOW TO TATTOO AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME: SAFETY FOR YOURSELF AND THE CUSTOMER

For your own safety I recommend that you always use glove (surgical latex). This is not only for your safety, it also shows your customer that you care and looks more professional. Always make sure that your tattoo area is clean. Keep the needles and tubes clean and sterilized in sterilization pouches. You should always remove them in front of your customers. If possible use new needles for every customer. When first starting out, this can be very costly. Buy prepared stainless steel needles, they are usuable if handled carefully and inspected for any dullness and bent needle points. Any sign of damaged needles should be disposed of properly (check with your board of heatlth for any rules and regulations). Damaged needles will hurt your reputation, as well as unnecessary pain for your customer.

PREPARING THE SKIN

You first start by making sure everything is clean, organized, and in it's place. The first step is to prep the skin in the area where the tattoo is to be done. Make sure the skin area is clean by removing any dirt and oil that may be produced by glands under the skin. Take the spray bottle marked green soap and a white paper towel and spray are with soap, then clean at least two inches larger than the pattern to be applied. After you have cleaned the area with soap, take the spray bottl marked alcohol and spray the area, then clean any soap film that might remain. Repeat steps 1 and 2, again allow time to dry. We are now ready to move onto applyhing transfer or stencil.

STENCILS

There are several types of stencils. We will begin by explaining the different types. I have seen many tattooists at work, but I have yet to see one that does not use a stencil or guidelines of some sort. Your freehand will come into play when you start doing shading and coloring. The way I would recommend if possible., would be by using a thermal fax machine. This machine will print out the transfer by using a special sheet calle thermacopy. With your copy machine, run off a copy of the desired design. Use line design only, use no shading or color in your transfer, since this will clutter your patter on the skin which in turn will make it hard to see the lines. Having the thermal fax copy sheet in hand remove the protective brown paper and discard, then place copy of desired design face up under a carbon sheet. When ran through the thermal fax, through heat and light the copy of the design is transferred to the top sheet.

Another method of stenciling is with the hectograph pencil. Using a high grade of tracing paper, trace out the desired design to be transferred. The hectograph ink and pen are done pretty much the same way as the pencil.

Then we have acetate stencils. Acetate stencils are a clear plastic and have one good advantage, the clear plastic makes it easy to flip designs. To use the acetate you need a stencil cutter. Place the designs under the acetate and trace with the cutter, being careful not to go completely through the other side. If you want the reverse angle, then just flip it over and repeat tracing the lines with the stencil cutter. After you have cut the lines the acetate needs to be deburred. To do this, take a small piece of acetate and rub back and forth in a fanning motion across the cut edge. To use the acetate stencil you will need black stencil powder. Using carbolated Vaseline put a thin coat on the area where you are going to put the design. With the cut stencils powder on the acetate and rub the powder into the grooves with your finger. Wipe off any excess powder making sure the powder is only in the grooves. Remember to use just enough Vaseline to shine the skin, too much will blur the transfer. Apply the acetate to the area, hold firmly and very still, with the other hand take your fore finger and massage over the design. After you have done this, remove the acetate with a quick pealing motion.

With the thermal fax and hectograph stencils, rub the area with the deodorant stick. Apply the paper stencil, press with the palm, and then rub with your finger. Remove these stencils slowly. Allow time for the deodorant to dry. With what ever method you have decided to use, the only way to get good at it is practice.

HOW DEEP SHOULD I GO?

There is a big misconception that there is a large amount of blood and a lot of gore. Tattooing today is a fine line and precise art. It's not like in your grandpa's days when he got a tattoo and ten years later you can't tell what it was because it was put in so deep that the ink spread and worked its way back up through the skin.

A tattoo today, if done properly, can last without the spreading of ink. It will hold the fine line and the definition indefinitely, provided there is no damage through improper care, neglect in healing, or an abrasion fo one type or another. Depth of a tattoo may vary from one customer to another. There are many different types of skin that a tattoo artist will come across. Some will willingly accept the ink while some will totally regject it. You need to keep the skin moist and soft throughout the procedure and remember to keep the skin tight at all times. The skin is very elastic, which means that the needle can bounce or drag if the skin is not tight. The skin is made up of two layers, the epidermis and the dermis. Betweenthe two there is an approximated thickness of 1/6 of an inch. You only need to penetrate the epidermis layer to get the tattoo permanent. If you penetrate these two layers then coms the fatty tissue and after the comes the muscle tissue. If you penetrate these layers you are greatly increasing your chance of scar tissue. Fat and muscle tissue has no consistency to hold the ink. I suggest that you don't go any deepr than 1/8 of an inch. Never overwork the skin for fear of scar tissue.

STRETCHING THE SKIN

When tattooing, the skin needs to be tight at all times. Tattooing the arm if fairly easy as far as body areas go. Wrap your hand around the back side of the arm or wherever the transfer was placed. With your thumb and fingers stretch the akin from side to side.

When tattooing larger areas, like backs, chests, and shoulders, its always nice to have a helper around to help stretch the skin. Most of the time that is not possible so you will need to do a lot of work between the thumb and fore fingers.

I have found that is also works well when pulling down below the tattoo and pushing up above the tattoo.

THE ART OF TATTOOING : OUTLINING THE TATTOO

In the business of tattooing there is no room for mistakes, therefore it is wise to get it right the first time. As in life you will have your good days andyour bad days. A word of advice, if for some reason you don't feel like tattooing, try to leave the problems aside.

After applying the transfer and allowing time to dry you are ready to start the outline. Apply a thin coat of vaseline over the transfer. I recommend that someone will little experience use a #3 needle liner to start. To properly use a single needle takes time to learn to use it the right way, so get a little work under your belt before attempting this. Start at the bottom of the tattoo. At the beginning of a line with a smooth and steady, even stroke continue to the end of the line, making sure not to go too slow to too fast.

Never stop in between lines. You will find that it is very difficult to connect the lines perfectly again. Continue to connect the lines. Always tattoo in a downward motion. You will want to be careful not to over run the lines, I will call cross over.

After finishing a line, wipe softly with a paper towel. You need to make sure you have that smooth even line the first time so you don't have to go back and darken in the lines. This could lead to double lining. With experience and the proper equipment, in time, this will almost become automatic.

SHADING

After completing the outline, the next step is the shading. There are several types of shading. In my opinion, shading and coloring are the most rucial parts of a tattoo. This is the part of a procedure where the largest chance of damage and scarring can occur. If it isn't done correctly, you will run into problems such as the skin not excepting the ink, blotching, or excessive skin damage.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

SHADING

After completing the outline, the next step is the ahading. There are several types of shading. In my opinion, shading and coloring are the most crucial parts of a tattoo. This is the part of a procedure where the largest chance of damage and scarring can occur. If it isn't done correctly, you will fun in to problems such as the skin not excepting the ink, blotching, or excessive skin damage.

Speed will vary by machine and artist. Be careful not to overwork the skin. Work a little bit and wipe, work a little bit and wipe. Every now and then apply another coat of vaseline. Shading is bad when it is uneven or blotchy throughout the tattooed area. Good shading would be nice even color throughout the are.

Next would be a black to gray type shading. This is achieved by lifting slightly as you work away from the darker side.
This effect could also be reached by setting the depth of the needle. Another way would be by diluting the in itself (explained in more detail in Secrets and Tips). With practice it will become easier.

COLORING

Coloring is done pretty much in the same way as shading. You will find that some colors will need to be worked in a little more than others. Always keep the skin moist with vaseline whenever needed. Again, colors should be done from darker to lighter.

NOTE: To the beginners, start small, don't get too large or too detailed. Don't overload yourself. The larger and more detailed work will come as you get more experience.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

BANDAGING THE TATTOO

After finishing the final steps of the tattoo, clean the tattoo thoroughly with green soap. Next, spray the tattoo with a little alcohol on the tattoo, this will sting a little bit but it kills a lot of germs. Pat dry the area with a paper towel and apply a coat of antibiotic ointment, you don't need a large amount. Last, apply a non stick gauze pad and securely tape it to the area of the tattoo. Some people may choose to use handi-wrap, which allows the customer to view the tattoo as well as their friends who will be wanting to see the work. Using handi-wrap tends to be cheaper, but cheaper is never better. I recommend you use non-stick gauze. It looks much more professional. Written instructions on how to care for the new tattoo should be gone over word for word by you with the customer. I suggest you have the instructions put on your business cards or printed on a separate sheet of paper.
Instructions should read as follows:

Bandage should remain on tattoo for at least 1-2 hours.
Apply ointment 3-4 times daily to speed healing.
Avoid swimming for 10-12 days.
Keep the tattoo out of the sun, do not allow the tattoo to get sun burnt.
Avoid picking at any scabbing that might occur on the tattoo.
Do not use alcohol, this will dry out the tattoo and cause cracking.
Do not apply any foreign substance, like hand or body lotions, these have chemicals that could affect the tattoo.
Do not use soap on the tattoo.

CLEANING UP AFTER THE TATTOO IS FINISHED

After you have bandaged the tattoo and gone over the care instructions with the customer, clean the tattooing area as follows, Dismantle the machine, being careful not to bump or bend the needle points. Discard all used ink caps (never reuse ink caps) and put needles and tubes in the ultrasonic cleaning machine. Spray down the counter tops, chair, and tattoo machine with alcohol and wipe clean.

STERILIZATION

An autoclave is sterilizing under steam and pressure. Usually 15 minutes in required to properly sterilize the tubes and needles. For autoclave units there are special pouches to put the tubes and needles in. These pouches have indicators that will change color when properly sterilized. Dry heat sterilization uses extreme heat like an oven. These are also special pouches for this procedure. These pouches are referred to as tubing, you will need indicators that change color for the procedure as well. Depending on the model and age of the sterilizer, 350 degrees at 60 minutes usually is sufficient for proper sterilization. The indicators will change from green to brown when properly sterilized. Prepared needles do not come sterilized and must be wiped down with alcohol before being sterilized. After doing a tattoo, the cleaning procedure is as follows, being careful, remove needles and tubes from machine, place them in a acreened basket, place the basket in the ultrasonic cleaning machine with ultrasonic cleaner and water solution (directions for solution will very), let the tubes and needles sit in the machine with it running for at least 30 minutes. Change the solution often, When finished (always wear gloves when cleaning machine), remove needles and tubes from the basket and spray with alcohol. Then, place them on a clean towel and allow time to dry. Put all needles and tubes in their proper pouches with indicators and place them in your dry heat or autoclave sterilizer. If you do not have an ultrasonic cleaning machine then the procedure is as follow, remove the tube and needle from the tattoo machine (while wearing gloves), point the sharp end of the needle away from your body, with a small brush (toothbrush). Starting where the needle connects to the bar, brush out toward the end of the points (being careful not to damage the points, it doesn't take much to bend or barb these very thin needles), use the green soap to wipe off the needles and tubes. After thoroughly cleaning, check the needle and tubes with an eye lube to make sure all the ink is removed from the cracks and crevasses. When this is done wipe the entire needle and tube with alcohol and place them in the sterilizer of your choice.
Follow the same procedure for the tubes as you would for the needles. Except, at the tips of tubes one might take a toothpick and clean the tip channels. Before you sterilize, spray with alcohol and let dry, then, place them in your choice of sterilizer. This way of cleaning can be very risky as well as time consuming. To do away with all of this get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner.

TROUBLE SHOOTING : COLOR WON'T STAY

First of all, you want to make sure you have the best ink money can buy. There are all kinds of ink on the market today, some great and some not so great. Check around and see what you prefer. Always buy from a reputable dealer. Some colors are harder to get to stay in than others. For example, yellow is a hard color since it fades faster than most colors. White is another color that is hard to get to stay as well as getting it even. Always make sure the skin is kept tight when tattooing colors. Check the ink since it could be too thick or too thin, for most ink you're looking for consistency of oil. Imagine the thickness of car oil and have your tattoo ink about the same. If the ink dries out pretty fast it is too thick, or if the ink is clear and really runny it is too thin. If you think the ink is too thin then you might want to leave the cap off the ink bottle so the alcohol can evaporate. In time the ink will become thicker. In the case that you think the ink is too thick then you can add a little alcohol. One's idea of thickness will not be the same as others. With time one will learn what's best for them. If the ink is not the problem then you might want to look at the tattoo machine. Usually when you are using a larger needle you will want to set the power supply a little higher. Next, check to see if your needle is dull, bent, or even bared. If the needle is damaged in any way then dispose of it properly. I recommend you use a new needle on every customer. There is always the chance that you may run across a bad or bent needle in the packaged needles. Always check the needles before using them. You might also want to check the skin type you are tattooing. Over time you will find that some skin will accept the ink better than others.

TATTOO FADING

Fading can occur due to a lot of reasons, First, fading can be a result of improper care of a tattoo. Negligence by the customer, who received the tattoo, either by not following the instructions or damage on their part can cause fading. Picking at a tattoo should never be done. An indication that a person has been picking at the tattoo would be large areas of missing ink or indentations, even large holes. This would be a definite sign of picking. Another cause of fading and damage is the sun. The sun is possibly the worst enemy for a new tattoo. If the tattoo is allowed to get sunburned it can harden the pigment in the ink. When this happens you will notice the raising of the skin, if you run your fingers over the tattoo you will feel raised areas. Other reasons for fading could be from using dull or damaged needles, the wrong setting on the power supply, the wrong needle for the size of the area, over working the skin, or perhaps bad ink.

SKIN DAMAGE

Imagine a fish hook being pushed into your skin and then being pulled out. That's what a barbed or bent needle can do. If at any time while you are tattooing and notice any damage or the ink just doesn't want to go in, STOP and let the tattoo heal. It's best to spend a little extra time on the tattoo rather than scar the area. Once you have scar tissue it is very hard to get the ink to stay in, that is if you can get it to go in at all. Another reason could be that the skin was not tight at the time of the tattooing. It is also a good idea to check the depth of the needle, the speed of the power supply, and as always the needles for any damage.

INK SPOTTING

Ink spotting is when ink fly's out of the tip of the tube. If this happens, check the length of the needle that is sticking out of the end of the tip. Again, check the speed setting. If this isn't the problem then there could be a hole in the tip somewhere. There could be what they call wobble, meaning there is space between the needle and the side walls. This is usually only found in the flat tubes like #3, #4, and #6 flat.

EXCESSIVE BLEEDING

There could be many reasons for this to happen. Dull, bare, or bent needles, excessive speed, or going too deep are just a few. Another reason could be thin blood, which results from drinking, drug use, or even some medications. Always check with the customer to see if they are taking any medications. If they are taking medication for any blood disorders, it could cause their skin to reject the ink. Any person taking medication for a blood disorder should not be tattooed. You should never tattoo a person who is intoxicated or under the influence of drugs because this can cause thinning of the blood, which in turn will lead to excessive bleeding. You should have some ammonium just in case you come across a bleeder. Ammonium alum is an astringent to aid in controlling the bleeding.

TATTOO WON'T HEAL

If a tattoo won't heal, there could be several factors involved. For instance, the customer has an allergic reaction to the ink. This could be seen by noticing if the tattoo is discharging any fluid after three or four days of the tattoo being done. Also, if redness persists to remain around the edge of the tattoo as well as soreness to the touch after three or four days, the customer should be informed to see a doctor where as he/she can prescribe a stronger antibiotic. If this occurs, that person should not get another tattoo. Another reason could be that the customer has had staff infection at some time or another, which always stays in their system. The worst possible reason why a tattoo won't heal would be the tattooist did not properly and efficiently clean and sterilize the tubes and needles, thus causing an infection. If it is found that the tattooist is the cause of the infection it will be the start of his/her downfall.

SKIN TYPES

In your tattooing career you will come across quite a few different skin types. You'll find that there is dry skin, oily skin, easily bruised skin, and overly sensitive skin. You will need to keep a thin coat of vasaline on the area throughout the tattoo process. Keeping the skin moist will keep most skin on an equal basis. Dark skin and tanned skin can be tattooed as well as any other skin. These people need to be informed that the colors will not be as bright as it might be on light or white skin.I suggest, if it is dark skin, that the tattoo be done in all black ink.

MACHINE RUNNING BAD OR BOGGING DOWN

There are a few reasons for this to happen. The first thing to look for would be the setting of the tattoo machine and the setting of the power supply. Check the contact point to see if it looks burned or pitted. If this is the case, use a piece of fine sandpaper and very lightly shine the contact point. Next, you might want to adjust the contact screw. This is a very fine adjustment, and very little movement is required. Your machine should sound smooth and strong. There is the chance that the springs are worn out. This is unlikely as these springs seem to last for quite awhile.

MACHINE RUNNING SLOW

In the case your machine is running slow, you should look for any abstraction in the tube tip. For example, there could be a build up of ink in the tube tip. There could even be a hole in the tip. Next, look for any damage to the needle itself. The bar could be bent or the needle points could be barbed and hooking up in the skin.

BROKEN LINES

Broken lines can result due to several things. First, make sure the skin is kept tight. Second, it could be dull needles. Next it could be that you are not keeping an even depth or you are lifting on the machine and not allowing the needge to penetrate evenly. Another thing might be you are moving too fast to allow proper penetration. Last, letting your needle run out of ink can also cause broken lines.

SPOTTY LINES

Usually this results from moving too slowly even stopping. Again, the problem could be dull or damaged needles. Never pause and allow the needle to keep penetrating. Most often this happens when one is tattooing a line and goes on to another line while pausing slightly before doing so.

DOUBLE LINES

This is usually caused by damaged needles, a separation of needles, or when one goes back to darken a line. He/She can misjudge the previous line. A buildup of tissue between the needle points could also cause double lines to occur.

FAT LINES

This is usually the result of dull or damaged needles. Separation of the needle group is also a possibility. Other reasons include penetrating too deep and buildup of tissue between the needle points.

LIGHT LINES

This could be the cause of several things, one being dull needles. The skin not being tight will result in light lines. Other possibilities could be not enough depth (needle penetrations), the setting on the tattoo machine, or the setting on the power supply.

SHAKEY LINES

This could be caused by the customer moving around while you are tattooing. Your hand could be shaking or there could be too much movement in the needle top or the tube could be loose. One other thing might be that the rubber bands are worn out.

CUSTOMER HAVING TROUBLE HANDLING TATTOO

Before any tattoo is done, you should take the time to explain in detail the procedure and what the customer can expect. You need to reassure them that they are in capable hands. You need to have them as relaxed as possible and not tensed up. When tattooing begins always look up to notice the color of their faces and whether or not they are sweating heavily. If you notice the face is pale or turning white, STOP immediately. You want to periodically ask the customer how they are doing. It is a good idea to carry on a conversation with the customer as well as inviting one of their friends to come back with them to keep their minds off the tattooing. If the customer gets to the point of lightheadedness, STOP and explain to them this is only temporary and will go away. Give the customer time to get their wits back, wait 15-20 minutes before tattooing again. To help the customer you should get a cold rag to put around their neck and wipe their face. Even a fan running would help to cool them off. Always keep them seated int eh chair, don't let them get up and move around. While sitting down have them lower their head between their knees. You don't want to get upset with the customer, you need to be able to help them through this experience. This will only help your reputation as a tattoo artist. The worst thing that could happen would be that the customer passes out on you before you catch the signs. You should have some smelling salts in the shop. To bring the customer around one should gently tap or slap the cheeks of the customer, and speaking loudly to try to bring them around. If this does not work, break a smelling salt cap and wave it under their nose a few times. Once the customer has gathered him/herself together, ask them if they want to continue, most of them do. Always give them time to recover. One other thing to have that is very important is a trash can with a plastic liner, in case the customer has to vomit. You don't want them to vomit on the floor, counters, equipment, or even yourself. If this happens stop everything and clean with disinfectant very thoroughly.

EPILEPTIC SEIZURES

Hopefully you will not have this happen to you. Your release form will prevent any of this by being sure that you have mentioned this in your form. You should refuse to tattoo epileptics and pregnant women. The tattooing procedure can send an epileptic into a seizure and a pregnant woman into labor, provided they are far enough along. The ink eats into the blood system and anything the mother gets the baby gets as well.

DRUNKS

You should never tattoo an intoxicated person, the alcohol in their system will thin their blood and cause unnecessary bleeding. This will make it very difficult for the ink to stay in and bleed out the colors as fast as you put them in. This could lead to over-working the skin which leads to scarring. You will not do a good tattoo on a drunk person. Ask them to come back when they sober up and you will gladly take care of their tattoo needs. If they don't leave, just call the police.

UNWANTED CUSTOMERS

For the unwanted customers, with a calm voice ask them to leave the premises. Don't argue or fight with them. This will only lead to trouble. For example, someone getting hurt or a lawsuit. If they don't leave, call the police. Just like the drunk person, you will come across the unwanted customer.

SETTINGS FOR THE TATTOO MACHINE

Most of this comes with practice and getting to know your tattoo machine. There is some practical knowledge that should be leaned about the tattoo machine before attempting to do repairs. The gap between the contact point and the contact screw (for the shading machine), should be about the width of a nickel. For the liner, the gap should be about the width of a dime. This should be done with the armature bar depressed against the coils. The contact screw should be around the one o'clock position. This should be done with the point of the frame facing down. Repairs and adjustments will come with practice and knowledge of your equipment.

TIPS FOR THE SHOP: CLEANING

One tip, I feel is a very wise idea, is to put plastic bags over your spray bottles. This will keep your bottles clean and help preventing the spread of germs. Change the bags after each customer. This can be an extra cost, but it looks very professional. Otherwise, you will need to clean the bottles after each customer. If you choose not to do this then clean and wipe down with alcohol after each customer.

PATTERNS

I have found that patterns can be found just about anywhere. Newspapers, books, coloring books, magazines, TV guides, and childrens' books to name a few. Patterns can also be found in your own custom work. In your tattoo library you should have art reference books, like how to draw this or how to draw that. These books will be very useful when you get into the high definition tattooing.

COLLECTING MONEY

A word to the wise, you should always collect the money before any tattoo work is done. I suggest that you do not allow credit or payments.

MONEY SAVING TIPS

DISINFECTANT SOAP

Instead of paying for costly brand names of surgical soap, here is an alternative way. Use one part liquid dial antibacterial soap and three parts water. This saves you money.

INK AND INK CAPS

Fill your ink caps with only enough ink that you will use. Don't over fill your caps with more than you will use. Following this suggestion will prevent you from wasting ink and in turn save you money.

BANDAGING

You will find that soon after the customer leaves the shop, it isn't long until they have disposed of the costly non-stick gauze bandage you so carefully placed on the tattoo. What I might suggest is that you use a paper towel or napkin (white only) and tape it on just like you would a non-stick bandage. Make sure that you inform the customer not to leave it on very long. 15-30 minutes at the most is the recommended time limit, and be very careful when removing the bandage. Another tip is you don't need to use the costly hospital tape. You can use masking tape, it does just as good of a job.

TATTOOING SECRETS : ARM BANDS

When tattooing armbands, ankle, or wrist you should use a piece of masking tape to get your straight line and your meeting ends to match. Take the tape and wrap it around the arm, ankle, or wrist and step back to see if it looks straight. If the tape is straight and lined-up, than take your stencil and follow the tape. Always have the customer standing and in a relaxed, natural stance when applying the stencils.

STENCILS

When applying stencils the small ones are easy. When you use larger ones they seem to wrinkle and the patterns turn out messed up. To avoid the wrinkling of the stencils, you need to cut in certain areas to get the stencil to lay flat. Cuts will vary depending on the pattern on the stencil. Never cut the stencil in half.

COVERING OLD TATTOOS

When covering old tattoos you will need to look for a pattern or design that will cover the old tattoo completely. Good designs that work well with cover-ups are ones with hair, beards, and hats. Most cover-up work is done in black ink. You cannot use a lighter color to cover-up a darker color. As you get better and your art improves cover-ups will become easier. It will take a larger design to cover the old tattoo. Custom work plays a big role in covering old tattoos.

WASH EFFECT

This is a fairly new technique in tattooing. It's all black ink shaded to gray. This can be achieved by diluting the ink as you go along. You will need a cap of blac ink and a cap of clean water. As you do your shading, work away from the darker side. In a flipping motion apply pressure and gradually lighten up on the pressure as you work away until you get the desired tone of shading that you want. This will take a lot of practice, so don't expect to be good at this technique when you first try it.

NOTE: When I do this wash effect I prefer to use a #14 round shader needle, then I come back with a #6 flat and feather out to get my desired tone. This will vary between artist and one's own personal preference. Always be careful not to over work the skin. It is the skin that holds the ink, not the flat tissue or the muscle tissue. So what I'm trying to say is you don't need to drill for oil.

AIRBRUSH EFFECTS

This technique is done pretty much the same way as the was effect only with colors. In this procedure practically any sized needle can be used to get this effect.